Tuesday, September 15, 2009

ACNE 101 by Angie Burns, Licensed Esthetician, Ritz



Acne is a common skin condition that affects teens and plagues many people throughout adulthood. In fact, nearly 85% of people will experience some form of acne during their lifetime. There are many myths about how to treat acne. In order to treat it correctly, it is important to understand what causes acne. There are three factors that produce acne: sebum (oil), enclosure (clogged pores) and bacteria.

Sebum (oil) is produced by the sebaceous glands situated at the root of the hair follicle in the dermis. Sebum travels, or is wicked up, by the hair follicle to the skin’s surface. An increase in oil production can occur during puberty and may also be triggered by hormonal fluctuations (pregnancy, menopause, menstruation, etc.), pharmaceutical agents (prescription drugs, birth control, etc.), stress, heat and humidity.

Not everyone with oily skin has acne. Clogged pores are stage two of acne. As dead skin cells are shed, they can impede the opening of the hair follicle and slow down the movement of oil to the skin’s surface. Combine the extra production of sebum and the dead skin cells and other debris becoming trapped and that creates a plug that blocks the hair follicle. Blackheads and whiteheads are both types of comedones, another term used to describe a clogged pore.

Bacterial infection by Propionibacterium Acnes (P. Acnes) is the leading cause of inflammatory acne. P. acnes bacteria feed off the oil in the clogged pore and attract white blood cells to the area and inflammation ensues. This inflammation can cause raised papules, pus filled pustules, painful deep nodules or deep pus-filled cysts.

There are many types of treatments for acne, but you have to deal with the three main factors – sebum, enclosure and bacteria. This can be done by using a three-tiered approach of a home care program, professional esthetic treatments, and a healthy diet. There are three main ingredients to look for in a home care program – salicylic acid, benzoyl peroxide and sulfur.

Salicylic acid is a beta hydroxy acid which targets the sebaceous gland and dissolves excess oil while it also works as an exfoliant to slough away dead skin cells. Salicylic acid is especially helpful in treating acne because of its ability to penetrate the follicle. It encourages the shedding of dead skin cells from within the follicle, helping keep the pores clear of cellular debris. In this way, it reduces the number of pore blockages and breakouts on the skin. Salicylic acid can be found in certain cleansers, toners, moisturizers and masks.

Benzoyl peroxide is one of the first proven treatments for acne, it has been used for decades and is still one of the most popular and successful treatments for acne. P. acnes (bacteria) cannot live in an aerobic (oxygen-rich) environment. Benzoyl peroxide works by introducing oxygen into the pore, thereby killing P. acnes. When the bacteria population is reduced, the number of breakouts on the skin is reduced as well. Another factor that makes benzoyl peroxide so effective is its ability to help rid the follicle of excess dead skin cells. Clearing the pore of cellular debris will lessen the chance of pore blockages, or comedones. Because of this, benzoyl peroxide helps prevent breakouts before they start. Most commonly, benzoyl peroxide is found in a lotion or gel of 2.5% strength.

Sulfur is one of the oldest known acne treatments. When applied topically, sulfur causes the skin to dry and peel. Despite how this sounds, it is actually a good thing for your skin if you have acne. Sulfur helps reduce skin oiliness, prevents pore blockages and helps heal existing blemishes. Sulfur is found in a wide array of skin care products, including soaps and cleansers, lotions, masks, and spot-treatments.

Moisturizers and skin nutrition is vital to any home care regimen – especially acne. Salicylic acid, benzoyl peroxide and sulfur dry excess sebum on the skin resulting in a drop in natural moisture levels and an increased risk of dehydration. Just because you may have oily skin does not mean you don’t need a moisturizer. Use a lightweight gel or lotion preferably containing anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, and antioxidant ingredients.

Skin care experts can effectively combat the visible signs of acne with advanced ingredients and skin care technology. Professional esthetic treatments can be performed by either an esthetician (skin care specialists) or a dermatologist. These treatments include acne facials, chemical peels, microdermabrasion, ultrasound, phototherapy, intense pulsed light and laser surgery.

Never pick or squeeze pustules. It will only make your acne worse because picking can spread P. acnes bacteria and squeezing can result in pushing infected material deeper into the skin, causing more inflammation and even scarring.